From David Love, March 2004. Kelly and I are fine in every sense of the word. To bring u up to speed, we had a ball in Hawaii the waves the first day I went for a surf was 15-20ft Hawaiian (the wave height is measured from the back of the wave not the beach side, and is invariably smaller than the face or breaking part of the wave). It was as full on as I think life gets when I first swam out in to the most monstrous surf that ive ever been in and thinking that straight down was naught but lava rock, split and fissured when these things broke they jack up (gain height suddenly) and then the crest is thrown forward and the bottom sucks out to form a tube u could drive a car into, then it moves fast "tubing" with a speed and power that makes hyperbole superfluous it was like looking into the face of god (as beautiful as it is awesome) and to ride one is like gamboling with the devil. The guys that surf it well make it look like the condensed beauty of all the poets in all time bellosed in human form falling slowly, controlled, solid, the living personification of concentration. Suffice to say that after my first wave I was caught inside (there is a small rip of sorts that runs in a diagonal about 100m away from the edge of the break, the break itself is comes about because the lava rock below is triangular, with tip seaward,) getting caught inside involves finding ones self in the impact zone rather than the rip when one has finished the wave. This comes about as the direction of the swell is slightly different wave to wave and consequently the end is not always in the channel or rip. The other thing is that Pipe is in the middle of all these other breaks either side of it. I always imagined it standing alone, immaculate. There is a rip, running left to right across the break that is unbelievably strong and looks delectably easy. One enters the water basically in front of the break there are a few boulders to maneuver around and (yes I smashed my hand into one or two of them) here u get your first sense of how strong the rip is as your feet are taken from underneath u. Pipe breaks about 150 to 200m off shore, but before u have taken more than a dozen strokes u think, hang on im about to swim into the take off zone, what seems like 10 seconds later u look up to realize that if u don't get a into g then your going to miss the rip and be pounded by the break on the other side (a very messy nasty bouldery type break!). Oh, that's right I got caught inside after I caught my first wave she just came to me, about 10ft face, breaking inside on a different angle than her big sisters, no one else near her, she was meant for me, I didn't, couldn't think, just reacted and there I was riding decent sized pipe. And the sound, ill never forget the sound, as your slipping deeper in to the barrel, the sound of tearing blasting in your ear, fabric or paper just very loud, the sound of the lip as it meets the face with me the literal sausage in the roll. Unfortunately she left me along way from the channel and in the middle of the deconstruction zone (where ones body is). Looking up the sets coming like marching mountains, I swam for all I was worth toward the channel but to no avail. When this thing broke around 50-75m in front of me it formed a rolling, exploding mass of white water at least 3-4m tall. Usually in these situations I thank the great whatever that I don't have a board and head for the bottom in the protection of deep water and basically wait for the thing to pass over me. Here heading for the bottom was exactly like heading for the bottom of a large bathtub I could have stood up and not have been waist deep. As well as a string of profanities death loomed large on my mind. As it turns out the hard rock actually helps as it forces most of the energy back up to the top of the water leaving a small but important window where the tumult does not completely reach, later I felt full force fury, but that's another story. And of course I competed. My heat was full of people that had made it into the semis in preceding years one of whom eventually managed 4th place this year. To make a long story shorter I froze instead of being relaxed and composed. I was a deer in the headlights of this competition. The surf was relatively small and the adage that at least u get to surf pipe with 6 people instead of the usual 60 is cold comfort. There is 6 in a heat they took the first three, I didn't get going until fear of looking like a complete prat caused me to start catching every thing in the last five minutes so I was 4th. Aids they surf so well man these guys is good (but so am I, I found out, I spent a lot of time in the water with locals and the thing is sort of rigged or squewd towards the locals and maybe I showed my hand free surfn and paid the price, I was goin off, after the comp I went off even more, I had to go out to prove to my self that I wasn't as crap as my results may have shown, I'm not!) a lot of rolls, triples, and mike Stewart does the one where u follow the lip over as u roll. The guy that came second [Mark Cunningham] doesn't do tricks, he is just the best, silky smooth makes it look easy flawless positioning and silky styln, and not afraid of the bigins he is a lifeguard at pipe so we have to get a video! It was an experience that I am sure to repeat (Aids, u comin or wat). Another good bit is the discovery of the body surfing movement; I have plans to start a central coast association and such. Kell and I formed a friend ship with a Frenchman and a guy from Boston (yes he bodysurfs there) (I met another guy that surfs in New York in winter!) we were interviewed by a guy [K.C. Earnshaw] making a documentary, and hung out. Twas good fun. We were seeing these guys every where and then they turned up at the sign in, and that cemented the friend ship. Kell is wearing a new ring now that we had made in Jodhpur (a bit more on that later), two baguettes (0.32 each) and a brilliant cut (0.58) totaling over a carat, set in white gold. We chose the diamonds and the setting ourselves and had it hand made for Kell overnight! The initial proposal was in the North Shore surf museum and was basically done by the guy that sold us the ring got some good pics though the original ring now given a new life by our friend in Jodhpur was found in Waiamiea bay by a cousin of one of the three stooges. Cool huh! Kell had to propose in a proper way to give me an idea of what should have happened. In my defense it was a hard situation to get out of, and when the guy selling us the ring says, so am I seeing a proposal and stupid me goes, well yea, you can see the romance sucking out quicker than 20ft Pipe! Ive proposed a few times since then and I think im nearly ready to take off the training wheels and go for real.